Farmhouse, Resort & Banquet Lawn Lighting

A family farmhouse lit well typically takes 25 to 50 fixtures across all zones. A banquet lawn or resort with parking, multiple buildings and an event area runs past 100. Fixture count matters less than spread - many small fixtures across zones beat a few large floods every time.

Use 200W floods (24,000 lumens) on the boundary or poles, angled inward, one every 15 to 20 m for a typical event lawn. Mount at 12 feet minimum so guests aren't dazzled at eye level, and overlap the beams so each fixture's edge reaches the next one's centre. Uniform coverage matters more than peak brightness.

100W (12,000 lumens) for small lawns and secondary areas, 200W (24,000 lumens) for a full event lawn. For a family farmhouse, you often need no lawn floods at all - lighting the edges, trees and paths and leaving the centre soft usually gives a better evening than flooding the whole space.

Stake spike lights at the base and aim into the canopy, not at the trunk. One 7W or 10W fixture for a small tree, two 12W from different angles for a medium tree, three 15W or 20W around a large mature tree. Lit foliage glows and adds height to the property; a lit trunk is just a bright pole.

Warm white (3000K) everywhere guests go - facade, lawn edges, paths, trees, fountain, boundary detail. Cool white (6500K) only on the driveway street lights and any security flood over a service area. Cool white on a farmhouse facade is the fastest way to make a beautiful property look like a factory gate.

Street lights on 3-4 m poles, one every 12 to 16 m. 30W (3,000 lumens) for a single-vehicle drive, 50W (5,000 lumens) for a wider approach or where event vehicles will enter. Street lights rather than floods, because the elongated beam follows the drive instead of spilling across the lawn.

Burial lights set flush in paved paths, 1.5 to 2 m apart, so nothing protrudes and guests are safe barefoot or in heels. Spike lights along garden paths through planting. A recessed glare-shielded step light on every flight of stairs - a single unlit step is the most likely injury on any property.

Burial and fountain lights are IP68, rated for continuous submersion rather than just rain, which matters where paths pool during monsoon. Spike lights, wall lights and flood lights are IP65 - fully dust-tight and protected against water jets, correct for anything mounted above ground level.

Yes. They're IP68 rated for continuous submersion and built in SS304 stainless steel, which is the spec that matters - aluminium and mild steel corrode in permanently wet installation, and replacing a corroded fixture means draining the fountain.

Parking area coverage, driveway lighting, facade lighting on the main building, 200W floods across the event lawn, path and step lighting throughout, and uplit trees at the lawn edges. Put the lawn and decorative circuits on separate switches - events run to a schedule and someone will want them independently controlled.

Prioritise the boundary and gate over the lawn. Up-down wall lights along the boundary wall with 100W floods where real coverage is needed, mounted at 10 to 12 feet and angled inward and downward so light stays on your property. Put these on a day/night photocell so the property is never fully dark on a weekday.

With a day/night photocell sensor, yes - it switches at dusk and dawn with no intervention, which is what a property that sits empty on weekdays needs. Digital timers suit the decorative circuits, shutting the facade off at a set hour. Keep security, driveway, facade and lawn on separate circuits.

Lower than most people expect, because the right approach uses many small fixtures rather than a few large ones. A 40-fixture scheme of spike lights, burial lights, wall washers and column lights typically draws under 700 watts in total - less than a single old 750W halogen flood, while lighting the entire property.